tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25945115726594536502012-02-01T18:28:30.668-05:00cultural perspectives on the art of cookerythe five o'clock teaspoon ~ fiveoclockteaspoon.comhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11117337257103249287noreply@blogger.comBlogger511100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2594511572659453650.post-90643869318233007242012-01-20T19:06:00.002-05:002012-01-21T12:26:01.597-05:00

Brazilian Cookery by Margarette DeAndrade, Charles E. Tuttle Co., 1965, 349 pp.  When a friend of mine visited Brazil last year, her intrepid account of the trip on her always witty and entertaining blog, One for the Road Travel, brought to mind a classic cookbook that has long been out of print. Published in 1965, Brazilian Cookery: Traditional and Modern, written by Margarette de Andrade

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While the leaves of the mustard plant are edible and quite tasty when cooked or raw in a mixed greens salad, it is the seeds of this brassica that I most look forward to. Mustard fruits in the summer, with green pods that grow to about 2 inches long. By October, the pods turn into brown husks, cracking open to reveal tiny balls that hold a pungent fragrance. Depending on the variety, these

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With the late summer bounty of herbs, fruit, and vegetables throughout August and into early September, it is easy to overlook quieter perennial flowers that bloom at this time of year in the northeastern United States. A close look at one section of my garden yields several noteworthy specimens that are a charming, subdued interlude between the showy midsummer lilies and echinacea (

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Borden-Wieland. 1937. "Delicious Dairy Dishes," presented by Crowley's Milk Company, Inc. (promotional booklet). Meta Given and Ruth Cooper (contribs.) 62pp. Illustrated in color.The Crowley Dairy Company was founded in Poughkeepsie, NY in 1904 by J.K. Crowley. In 1915 the company moved to Binghamton where its headquarters remain today. Because "Delicious Dairy Dishes" (hereafter DDD) is

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The Story of Carnation Milk, Booklet, 1915. Things Made with Carnation Milk .As mentioned in the last post on a 1915 Carnation Milk booklet, the recipes included are adaptations of conventional contemporary favorites such as Perfection Salad, Welsh Rarebit, and Macaroni and Cheese. The bread recipe below includes detailed instruction but omits information about oven temperature and baking time,

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Carnation MilkPacific Coast Condensed Milk Company. 1915. "The Story of Carnation Milk" (promotional booklet). 32pp. Illustrated, with some color illustrations. Printed by the American Lithographic Co., NY.Although first available in the mid-19th century, it took almost a century before canned milk became a trusted product. Booklets such as this one, published in 1915 by Carnation Milk,

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American writer and illustrator, Johnny Gruelle (1880-1938), created the Raggedy Ann character in 1915 for his daughter, Marcella, and in 1918, published the first of many books recounting the delightful adventures of the playroom rag doll, Raggedy Ann, and her brother Raggedy Andy. Although they live in an idyllic world of bucolic settings and benign fairies and animal friends, the Raggedys

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A child's first food is often a rite of passage, an induction into the pressures, constraints, hopes, and beliefs of the society in which she/he will be raised. Shoba Narayan begins her memoir, Monsoon Diary, writing about the symbolic resonance of her first food-- rice with ghee fed by a Hindu priest at the Guruvayur temple in Kerala, as part of the traditional choru-unnal, or rice eating,

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The last post from this series examined the kingdom of Utensia, described in The Emerald City of Oz (1910), the sixth book in L. Frank Baum's chronicle of the Land of Oz. In the next chapter (Chapter 17), Dorothy happens upon yet another marvelous foodscape in Bunbury, where she finds a society totally composed of dough. While Utensia may be noted for its abundance of utensils and lack of food,

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On New Year's day I sometimes like to have a tea party, using a few of my favorite porcelain and silver pieces to serve a variety of sweets and savories. The day's tea menu rests on an English porcelain menu stand, a charming 6" high table accessory from the 19th century. Although neither menus nor such accompanying stanchions are used in domestic settings today, these were once useful

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Although there have been few scholarly publications devoted to representations of food in literature, the subject has begun to receive greater attention in recent years. Children's literature offers a particularly interesting focus, for in stories of make-believe, food may be conjured in infinite variety. In many examples of such works, food bridges the fantastic and the quotidian- a banal

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At the Museum of Modern Art's Counter Space show, mentioned in the last post, a small utensil from the 1950's caught my attention. Known as a cookie cutter wheel, it is composed of several cookie cutter shapes fitted onto the spokes of a wheel, with a plastic handle. This simple contraption would allow the home baker to quickly and effortlessly stamp out a chain of perfectly cut cookies by

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Dolls' house stove, tin, English 1930-1960shown in "Food Glorious Food" at Museums Sheffield and traveling to the V&A's Museum of ChildhoodThe kitchen is defined as a place where cooking is carried out. To this end it is usually characterized by the presence of a heat source. While this purpose has not changed since the earliest domestic settlements, the cultural construction of the kitchen

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Hijiki (Sargassum fusiforme) is a type of seaweed that grows along the coastlines of China, Korea, and Japan. Available in grocery stores in dried form, hijiki is commonly used in Japanese home cooking. Its crinkly, tea-like leaves are soaked in water for about an hour, swelling to tadpole sized pieces. Hijiki is very high in iron, calcium, and magnesium. Although it contains minute levels of

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Restaurant related objects such as business cards, matchboxes and matchbooks, menus, and advertisements, as well as utensils, promotional memorabilia, and decorative accessories, can illustrate and help determine the tastes and customs of particular places and time periods. I have a small collection of business cards taken from roadside restaurants on a cross-country U.S. trip some years ago.

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Speaking of the eponymous John Montagu (1718-92), 4th Earl of Sandwich, credited for his innovative method of staving off hunger at the gambling table, Elizabeth Robins Pennell writes: "A hero indeed is he who left the sandwich as an heirloom to humanity. It truly is the staff of life, a substantial meal for starving traveller or bread-winner; but none the less an incomparable work of art, a joy

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Stone fruit trees are a dramatic presence in the garden, yielding delicate blossoms in the spring and gem-like fruit in the summer. Even in winter stone fruit trees retain a striking form, their dark, gnarled branches seen against a chilling grey sky. Between late January through March, small branches may be cut and brought indoors to force blooming, creating an unexpected wintertime floral

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The Malay word agar-agar (jelly) is also the common name for red algae such as Gracilaria lichenoides or Gelidium amansii, originating in the coastal waters of the Mediterranean and East Asia. For cooking purposes, agar can be found in either powdered or dried form in Asian supermarkets. When dissolved in liquid, heated, and then cooled, agar transforms into a moldable jelly. Odorless and

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Although eggplant (Solanum melongena) also known as brinjal or aubergine, is cultivated around the world, the plant is native to southern India and Sri Lanka. The petite variety, shown below, is often labeled "Indian eggplant" in grocery stores. While "Indian" is indeed redundant, the small, egg-shaped variety is mainly grown in India, where eggplant is called baingan or kathirikkai.In both

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Last August I found a copy of a lovely out-of-print book, The Art of Cooking with Roses (1968) by Jean Gordon. While I waited until roses were again in season (May-June) before testing some recipes, I enjoyed reading Gordon's chapters on rosewater, rose extract, rose syrup, rose petals and rose petal preserves, and rose hips.A dedicated rose enthusiast, Gordon founded the Rose Museum in St.

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Although common cultivated rhubarb is a vegetable from the Polygonaceae family (of which sorrel is also a member), the ruby toned stalks are mostly used in dessert recipes. Besides imparting its lovely hue, rhubarb's tart juices meld nicely with sugar.Rheum rhabarbarum 'Valentine'.Rhubarb, a cool-climate perennial, starts to appear in March and reaches its peak around May to June. While rhubarb

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The images in this post are from a set of commemorative postcards issued to promote the 1939 World's Fair, held in Flushing Meadow Park in New York City.From street festivals and village fêtes to county carnivals, fairs have historically functioned as sites of both commercial and cultural exchange. Going to a fair represents a break from the quotidian-- a chance to experience something new and

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Although the concept of individual sticks of cake may not seem unusual, a look at the Japanese Tiny Stick Cakes Recipe Book (ちっちゃなスティックケーキのレシピブック) by Yuko Kurokawa (黒川 愉子) published in 2006, reveals how a simple form can inspire infinite creative variations. Kurokawa's recipes are accompanied by charming photos of the cakes artfully arranged with pretty serving pieces, textiles, and ephemera

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The Hour of the Goddess: Memories of Women, Food and Ritual in Bengal by Chitrita Banerji.Delhi, India: Penguin, 2006. 144 pp.Food and ritual are often intimately bound to one another in instances as varied as religious observances and tea ceremonies. In religious rites, food is often used to transcend a spiritual plane, thereby facilitating communication between the corporeal existence of

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Snow is a mutable substance, its icy particles giving way to a watery essence when heated. Perhaps it is this transformative process that imparts the subtle but defining characteristics that make melted snow very different from plain water. For centuries, snow has been used not only to keep food and drink cold, but as an ingredient. Buoyant LightnessSnow was considered a superior source of

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Growing SaffronSaffron is derived from the autumn blooming Crocus sativa, or saffron crocus. Saffron threads, the bloom's stigmas, are easily extracted, when gently pulled in late autumn, soon after the crocus has bloomed. The harvest process is time-consuming however, and with 75,000 flowers required to produce just 1 pound, saffron is an expensive and precious commodity. Rather than buying

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The New York Botanical Garden's third annual exhibition, Kiku: Art of the Japanese Chrysanthemum, is on view until November 15, 2009. See my post on last year's exhibit here. Although the NYBG does plan to hold future kiku exhibitions, the exhibit will not return next year. Kengai (cascade) style chrysanthemum, grown from a single stem.This year, in addition to specimens from the exquisite

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This charming English ca. 1925 recipe book by Mrs C.F. Leyel was published by George Routledge & Sons as part of a series by the author called The Lure of Cookery. Other titles in this series include Puddings, Meals on a Tray, Drinks & Cordials, and Salads and Jams, and offer a concise overview of modern British cookery at that time. Cold Savoury Meals suggests meals in the manner of an

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Even without its fruit the quince tree could stand alone as an ornamental in the garden. At around 6 to 8 feet tall, the tree's handsomely compact structure is complemented by the subtle gnarls and twists that add character to the trunk and branches, making it a compelling sight even after the leaves have fallen. The foliage is nicely shaped and turns a lovely, bright yellow in the fall.

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One of my favorite sandwiches was served at a cozy Japanese cafe in the Lucky Plaza Shopping Centre in Singapore called Mitsubachi (Honey Bee). I have recreated their shiitake and melted cheese toast many times at home. Sandwiches can be an exciting lunch option, with infinite possibilites for fillings. Yet, the sandwich choices available on average menus are usually disappointing. Often the

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The small, shrubby Prunus mahaleb is one of two species of cherry (the other is Mazzard) from which cultivated cherries are grafted. Also known as the St. Lucie cherry or rock cherry, the name mahaleb comes from the Arabic word that references its sweet smell. While Mahaleb cherries are not usually cultivated for their small and bitter fruit, the seed kernel can be ground into a fragrant spice,

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The strawberry fork is a small utensil with 2 or 3 tines used solely for eating strawberries. It is a food-specific, decorative object and like the five o'clock teaspoon, was never a necessity at the table. Yet for a short time in America, items such as these came to suggest refinement and serve as a reflection of wealth and social status.Post Civil War Society: Activating a Consumer Class

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Rosa 'Ispahan'Scent of the Garden: Flavoring Food in Middle Eastern CuisineBesides its reputation as a common subject in the visual and literary arts, the rose has occupied a place among culinary traditions in many parts of the world. Rosewater, with its refreshingly uncloying sweet perfume, has been used to add flavor and scent to food and drinks for centuries. In medieval Islamic cuisine,

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The tasty mukhwas (mouth fresheners) one nibbles on at the end of an Indian restaurant meal are a traditional part of Indian cuisine. Indeed, 17th Century European travellers remarked on the prevalent practice of chewing paan-- areca nut wrapped in betel leaf-- a practice that continues today (Lizzie Collingham, Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2006). The

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Tea is a product of the Camellia sinensis plant. The leaves are dried and processed using a variety of methods that result in black, oolong, green, and white teas. Further variations might include flowers such as jasmine or orchid, which infuse the tea leaves with their fragrance. Although such flavorings were disdained by many tea scholars of the Ming era (1368-1644) in China, these fragrant

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Early and vintage cookbooks are interesting cultural documents for both the recipes and commentary from the time they were written. Many favorite dishes that were once commonplace are no longer among the average cook's repertory. Recently I looked through The Molly Goldberg Jewish Cookbook, a collection of recipes by Gertrude Berg who played the Molly Goldberg character in the popular 1950s TV

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Food has the potential to be a very powerful tool. The preparer, or cook, is thus uniquely advantaged to exploit that control for her/his benefit, like an alchemist turning base metals into gold. The dictionary definition of a cook is "one whose occupation is to prepare food for the table; one who dresses or cooks meat or vegetables for eating." Yet, this meaning does little to convey the

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Last week, at the end of February, early spring bulbs such as crocuses and snowdrops, were coming up in New York gardens. One of the earliest blooming trees is witch hazel (Hamamelis x intermedia), whose spindly petals, vibrantly hued in yellow to orange, make a striking contrast to any Winter/Spring landscape. In New York it is usually in bloom by late January or early February, but can bloom

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The Silk Road is defined by the group of land based trade routes along which goods (of which Chinese silk was a major commodity) were delivered between China, Western Asia and further west to the Mediterranean. From the 2nd Century BCE to the 16th Century CE, it was central to the distribution of goods around the world. To view some maps, visit The Silk Road Project and The Silk Road Foundation

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Here is a lovely pancake recipe that combines the flavor of coconut with sweet curry powder. For an even stronger coconut element, substitute lite coconut milk for the milk in the recipe. Serves 4Ingredients:2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour3 tsp sugar1 cup unsweetened fine dessicated coconut3 eggs1 1/4 cups milk2 Tbs butter, melted and cooled4 tsp baking powder1 tsp salt1 1/2 tsp sweet Madras curry

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A miniature Limoges plate painted with a winter landscape, ca.1882-1890.One of the redeeming qualities of Winter is that it makes drinking a cup of hot chocolate especially enjoyable. Hot chocolate, which might be too heavy in other seasons, is as welcome as a warm blanket in the winter months. A cup of rich Viennese hot chocolate with whipped cream is often better than dessert. Yet I

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By definition, the English word "congee" describes porridge of an Asian background. The word is an Anglicized form of the Tamil kanji, a kind of rice gruel. Congee is thus distinguished from cereal based porridge. Rice porridge is found throughout Asia. It is commonly served to the infirm as it is easily digestible. Yet, anyone can enjoy it as a tasty meal throughout the day. Recipes of

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I first tasted butter tea on a blustery spring day at Tsampa, a Tibetan restaurant on E. 9th St in New York City, named after the barley flour prevalent in Tibetan cooking. Although some people find its intense saltiness an acquired taste, butter tea, known as bo ja, is instantly warming and satisfying, with a rich and intriguing flavor. In Tibet, the drink is made by heating a portion of

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For a short time through November 16th, the New York Botanical Garden (NYBG) is displaying Kiku: The Art of the Japanese Chrysanthemum. It is the second year that the Garden has exhibited this extraordinary collection, a culmination of several years training with Japanese kiku masters in the style of kiku shown at the Shinjuku Gyoen Garden in Tokyo. The process of training each plant into its

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In India, halva (halwa) is just as varied as it is in Western and Central Asia (see Part I: Judeo-Arab Origins). Northern Indian specialties include dry halvas made from grains and nuts such as semolina, wheat, and almonds, and fruit and vegetable halvas made with carrots, beets, and winter gourd. Southern India and Sri Lanka are often known for denser confections made from grains, potato, or

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Halva is a simple dessert of almost universal appeal. Although indigenous to the Judeo-Arab regions of Asia, halva became a familiar treat in Europe and the United States, following the Muslim and Jewish diasporas as they spread throughout the world. It is known in variations throughout West, Central, and South Asia, for it can be adapted to include local ingredients that are available in large

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A bouquet of seed headsWhenever I need a tasty side dish, I like to use my own recipe for quick pickled cucumbers seasoned with turmeric, mustard seed, asafoetida, and sumac. They are slightly pickled in vinegar and kosher salt, but maintain their crunchiness. I recently served them alongside homemade lovage and cheddar bread, heirloom tomatoes, fresh Camembert cheese, and delicious Italian

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A few years ago we started growing Concord grapes in our garden. The grapes were planted in front of a tall mixed privet and rose hedge that borders one side of our small orchard of dwarf fruit trees. In our eagerness for grapes we hadn't decided upon a support structure for the grapevines. Soon the grapevines began reaching into the fruit trees. I later learned of archaeological evidence

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Peranakan culture is a blend of Malay and Chinese traditions, practices, and tastes that developed in the Straits Settlements of Penang, Malacca, and Singapore. Many Peranakan families can be traced back to the 17th and 18th centuries, when Chinese tradesmen and merchants (usually of Teochew or Hokkien extraction) began marrying local Malay women. The mix of cultures is vividly realized in

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I've come to sense the arrival of midsummer by the fragrances and sounds that fill the garden. The unabashedly heady scent of Oriental and heirloom species lilies and the drone of cicadas are two of the most vivid indicators of late July.Lilium “Black Beauty”Black currants, with their distinct yet subtle woodsy aroma, are one of my favorite summer scents. And their tart, assertive flavor makes

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The study of food and culture is compelling because everyone experiences and interacts with some aspect of the food process, from cultivation to consumption. As a result, food is one the most potent means of communicating social and cultural identity.I've named this blog after a piece of flatware that serves as a symbol for this concept. Distinguished from the average teaspoon by its

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